Heirloom-Quality Jewelry (Part 2)
High-End Craftsmanship and Quality Construction
Your heirloom jewelry should exhibit high-end craftsmanship and attention to fine detail. Good jewelry artists possess an intimate working knowledge of the elements of design, and the fundamentals of metal working, stone setting and other manufacturing techniques. The artist should also be familiar with the form, texture and individual properties of gold, silver and platinum and be able to use these metals to their best potential. Additionally, good jewelry artists may have a formal education or be self-taught, but their expertise should always be evident in the work that they make and sell.
A piece’s beauty is not necessarily an indication of quality; although the design should be attractive, solid construction is a fundamental necessity of any high-end piece of jewelry. As a rule, jewelry for which you pay a substantial price should be able to withstand years of normal wear. Quality construction is evidenced by:
- Strong solder joins that are free of gaps and that blend seamlessly into the rest of the piece.
- Secure stone settings that are straight and level.
- Metal that is free from pitting, porosity and brittleness.
- Absence of sharp or ragged edges that can cut skin or snag clothing.
- If engraved, engraving should possess noticeable depth and clarity.
- Balanced and attractive design.
Of all jewelry, rings are perhaps subjected to the most abuse. Rings should incorporate a sturdy band and gem settings that are designed to stand up against the rigors of continuous wear. Six prongs will hold a gemstone more safely than four and a bezel, or rub-over, setting is safer than a claw setting. Additionally, a lower setting is less likely to be damaged than a higher setting and of course, a heavier setting is stronger than a light setting.
Special Treatment and Unique Design
Special treatment of a piece of jewelry can instantly elevate a mundane piece to something extraordinary and imbue it with more sentimental or monetary value. Some examples of special treatment are hand engraving, custom design and the application of unique patinas and finishes. These types of designs and treatment require additional time and labor but the end results are well worth it as the buyer has the pleasure of owning something that is unique to his or her specific taste. Custom design is a trend that is regaining popularity as more people look beyond malls and department stores to find meaningful jewelry. When a buyer has the opportunity to participate in the creation of a piece ownership of the jewelry feels more authentic and its value far outweighs the actual cost of its elements.
Emotional Value
No price can be placed on the emotional significance an owner brings to a piece of jewelry. Attachment of sentimental value to jewelry is a tradition that has existed in human culture for thousands of years and persists in contemporary society in many forms. Wedding and commitment rings are easily recognized examples, but people also wear jewelry for luck, as reminders of personal beliefs and as objects of familiarity to bring comfort during moments of uncertainty. Sentimental value has long been one of the defining elements of heirloom-quality jewelry and this alone can render an object worthy of being passed down through generations, no matter the cost of its materials. If one intends for an emotionally valuable piece to become a family heirloom, it is highly suggested that a skilled professional using quality materials construct the piece.
How to Care for Your Heirloom-Quality Jewelry
Household chemicals such as chlorine bleach or ammonia can discolor gold, silver and platinum and harm precious and semi-precious stones. Chlorine bleach can pit gold alloys. You should remove jewelry before using household cleaners or entering a chlorinated swimming pool. Chemicals in hairspray, lotions and perfumes can permanently damage pearls and corrode solder alloys in stone and pearl settings, so it is suggested that jewelry be put on after applying any cosmetics.
With excess exposure, the sun’s ultraviolet rays can fade and weaken some semi-precious stones, particularly amethyst, topaz, pearls and pink conch-shell cameos. Other precious or semi-precious stones, such as amber, can darken over time. Avoid laying pieces in direct sunlight for days. When not wearing jewelry, store in a secure dark place.
Excessive heat and sudden temperature changes can fracture precious and semi-precious stones; heat removes the natural moisture some gems need to retain their beauty. Pearls can crack and discolor; opals can turn white or brown, develop cracks, and lose their iridescence. Again, keep your jewelry securely stored away from sources that would cause such damage.
The GIA’s recommendation for cleaning most colored gems involves using warm water, mild soap with no detergents, and a soft brush. Alternately, you can use a pulsed-water dental cleaning appliance and a soft, lint-free cloth. Organic gems may be scratched by these methods, however; instead, use warm, soapy water with an unused makeup brush. Afterward, lay the piece on a towel to dry completely before putting away.
Proper storage for your heirloom jewelry is absolutely essential. Never toss your heirloom jewelry into a drawer, in a safety deposit box, or atop any surface to avoid scratches and fractured precious or semi-precious stones. The box or pouch that may accompany your heirloom jewelry is the perfect storage compartment. Organic gems draw moisture from the air, so it is suggested that they be stored in a Ziploc bag. Sterling silver may develop a natural tarnish over time. Some people appreciate this tarnish, others prefer to keep the silver as polished as possible. To deter tarnish sterling silver should be kept in an anti-tarnish bag or place in a back with a piece of anti-tarnish paper. Alternately, the jewelry can be cleaned with a special chemical-impregnated polishing cloth. Jewelry boxes that utilize padded slots for rings, plus posts for necklaces and bracelets, are also ideal.
Research Sources:
All About Jewels, www.enchantedlearning.com
Gemology Institute of America, www.gia.edu, Caring for Jewelry–What you Need to Know, July 16, 2003; Historic Jewelry Returns as Fashion in the New Millenium, February 3, 2003; Jewelry Manufacturing Arts: Applied Jewelry Arts; Graduate Jeweler Tips for Purchasing Estate Jewelry, September 3, 2002
International Colored Gemstone Association, www.gemstone.org
International Gem Institute, www.igi-usa.com
Jewelers of America, www.jewelers.org
Jewelry Information Center, All About Diamonds; All About Cultured Pearls: Varieties of Cultured Pearls and Where They are Grown, Caring for Your Cultured Pearls, www.jic.org
Platinum Today, Johnson Matthey, Platinum as a Jewelry Metal, www.platinum.matthey.com
“Ruby, A Heart’s Desire,” by Amelia L. Hess, http://www.emporia.edu/earthsci/amber/go340/students/hess/
The Silver Institute, Glossary; Investing in Silver: Silver is a Precious Metal; Silver in the Home: Silver Jewelry; www.silverinstitute.org
World Gold Council, About Gold: Gold Jewelry, www.gold.org
